I have been getting a ton of questions lately about one of our Facebook postings in which I painted our kitchen walls and cabinets. Mostly people are curious as to what it took to get our cabinets looking like new.
Our house is very old and so are our cabinets. It didn’t bother us at first but eventually we got sick of looking at that ugly veneer look so we decided it was time for a makeover.
It’s not very difficult to paint over veneer it just needs the right prep work. If you hire a professional I would suggest trying to do as much as you can yourself such as taking off the doors and hardware and maybe sanding them lightly with a 220 grit sanding block. Just a light scuff will do nothing major ( imagine you are cleaning a window ). That will save you a few dollars. But if you decide to do it on your own here are some tips on how to go about it.
If you are not planing on painting the insides of your cabinet doors you can avoid taking them off and just use masking tape or petroleum jelly to mask your hinges and protect them from getting painted. I prefer petroleum jelly because you can use a small painting brush or a cotton swab to apply it and just wipe it off once your paint dries.
After you remove your doors (or just masking your hinges) lightly sand/scuff the surfaces that are being painted with a 220 grit sanding block. Use a damp rag to wipe off any excess dust.
Your next step is to prime the surfaces with a latex primer. I used one coat of Kills2™ all purpose primer and let it sit over night. You can find it in any hardware or paint store at around $10-$20 per gallon.
There are many different products out there that you can use but my personal favorite is made by Behr™ and is called ALKYD enamel (ca. $30-$40 per gallon). Unfortunately they do not sell quarts but this stuff goes a long way so one gallon usually is more than enough. On this project I used a semi-gloss finish but that is personal preference. I chose semi-gloss because I have 3 kids at home and it just makes it easier to clean.
You will need a 2 inch angled Nylon paint brush
and a 4 inch 3/8 white woven Whizz™ roller
Using a 2 inch Nylon paint brush start cutting in around the hardware (if you did not remove the doors) and any places your Whizz™ roller will not reach. Next use your Whizz™ roller to apply your ALKYD enamel. Try to paint in the same direction as your grain (if your cabinet has a fake wood pattern). Let it dry over night and repeat. You can hang your doors now but keep in mind that the enamel will dry over night but it takes 30 days to fully cure so be careful and try to avoid scrubbing them before those 30 days.
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Today I want to show you how to patch a hole in a hollow core Door. This particular hole was caused by a doorstop in which most cases it usually is. Hollow core doors are not very impact resistant so if you have hollow core doors in your home or place of business this tip will really help you save money and eliminate having to replace your doors.
You will need :
1 can of expanding foam such as GREAT STUFF™ (you can find this at any hardware store or Wal-Mart™)
1 tube of white all-purpose acrylic painters caulk (you can find this at any hardware store or Wal-Mart™)
Razor blade or flush cut saw
100 grit sandpaper (optional)
Door & Trim paint
Small painting Brush
To start off you want to remove all loose pieces from your doors damaged area. Shake your can of expandable foam for about 30 seconds and fill the hole from the inside of your door slowly working your way out. Be sure to wear gloves! This stuff is very intense when it gets in contact with your skin! Let it cure for as long as the label suggests. (I let this sit overnight) You will see that it expands quite a bit.
Your next step is to use your razor blade or flush cut saw and cut off the excess foam. Be sure to cut it back far enough so that it is not flush with your doors panel. You want to cut it back just a little because you will be applying your painters caulk over it which will then be flush with your panel. If you are having trouble cutting it back you can use a piece of 100 grit sandpaper.
Once you cut your foam back you are ready to apply your painter’s caulk. I used my razor blade to spread the caulk evenly making sure it looks smooth and the foams texture is not poking through the caulk. If that is the case you will have to cut back the foam a little more until you get a smooth finish with your caulk and let it dry before applying your second coat.
When you apply your second coat of caulk use your razor blade or an old credit card to mimic your doors wood grain pattern by slowly pulling your blade vertically over your caulk. This will leave a rippled imprint in your fresh caulk layer. It might take a few times but once you get a feel for it you will see it is quite simple to do but makes a big difference in your final outcome.
After your final coat of caulk dries you are ready to paint. Any cheap paint brush will do when applying your paint just be sure to use up and down strokes to blend in your paint and match the wood grain pattern.
If you have any questions just leave a comment and I will answer them to the best of my knowledge and as soon as possible.
For more tips and tricks check out our other blog post!
Today I decided to eat lunch at a local Diner for a change. As I am going through the menu I I noticed what seemed to be the owner of the Diner point out some nail holes to a waitress. He seemed a little annoyed that the workers had been hanging up flyers and such using small nails. I decided to go over introduce myself and suggested using a piece of chalk to fill in the nail holes. This is a simple trick for anybody that does not want to use joint compound or caulk. I would not suggest using this method if you are repainting your walls but as you can see in the pictures below that the results are almost unnoticeable.
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With three kids in the house things can get a little crazy and with two boys it can happen that at some point you will find yourself having to patch a hole or two in your drywall. In this case I will be fixing the aftermath of a Nerf™ gun fight.
Step 1: Measure the hole in the wall and add 1 inch to each side vertically and horizontal. This will ensure that you avoid broken pieces on the inside and give it extra support.
Step 2: Cut out a piece of drywall to the desired size. Make sure your piece has the same thickness as the drywall you are repairing.
Step 3: Place your cut piece over the hole and trace it along the edges using a pencil.
Step 4 & 5
4: With a utility knife cut along your lines using just enough pressure to cut through the paper layer of your drywall but not pushing too hard or else you will risk causing more damage.
5: Remove access pieces by pushing inwards. Be cautious again not to apply too much pressure and avoid causing extra damage. (Use your utility knife to clean up your cut edges as good as possible)
Step 6: Add a piece of wood from the inside as support. I am using a regular paint stirrer but you can use any solid piece of wood. To tighten the wood I used 1 1/4 drywall screws.
Step 7: Apply drywall compound with a small putty knife making sure you cover all screws and edges entirely then spread it with a larger putty knife removing all excess compound. It is not necessary to apply too much compound just enough to cover everything as you will have to repeat this step. Let it dry over night.
Step 8: With a medium grit sanding block and a vacuum cleaner you can sand down your compound and avoid it getting to dusty. Your patch should be somewhat smooth now. Add another layer of compound using step 8 but this time it will only be a light skim coat to fill in whatever you did not get with the first coat. You can repeat this step until you reach your desired finish.
Step 9: Your wall is ready to be painted now. Be sure to use a coat of PVA primer (any cheap primer will do) before painting over your patch or else you will have color flashing.
If you have any questions just leave a comment below. I will do my best to help you.
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If you have a smaller sized bathroom with a shower you most likely will encounter this problem at some point. It starts out as a yellowing spot on your ceiling and turns into dark mold spots. It is very ugly to look at but is not caused by uncleanliness as some would assume. The cause of this problem is condensing water from taking hot showers which collect on your ceiling and if it is not a very well ventilated room it will cause your wet ceiling to start growing mold spots.
How to fix it…
In most cases where the customer already made up their mind that they want to repaint the entire bathroom I will go ahead and use a oil based primer such as Killz™ ,let it dry and apply 2 coats of good quality ceiling paint.
However, if I see that the customer is unsure and does not want to repaint everything I suggest using a 50/50 water and Bleach mix. (I use 16 ounces of water to 16 ounces of bleach in a spray bottle) Spray your mixture directly on the stains and always wear the proper protection such as long sleeves and protective glasses. Let it sit for ca. 5 minutes and use a wet rag to wipe down your ceiling.
After cleaning your ceiling it should look almost like new. It is is possible that new stains will grow eventually. You will not be able to avoid this unless you find a better way to ventilate your bathroom during showers unfortunately. But it is a effective solution to your problem and a cheap substitute to repainting your bathroom ceiling.
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Removing old Wallpaper can be a real hassle and it is always difficult to estimate a job that includes removing Wallpaper. You never know exactly how long it will take and what obstacles you will run into. Different factors can slow down the process such as what kind of glue was used and whether the wallpaper was applied on previous wallpaper, painted walls or directly on drywall. In most cases I found that the wallpaper will be applied directly to your drywall which means that you most likely will need do some spackling after removing your wallpaper. It can be very costly if you hire a contractor to do the job and you will most likely end up paying them by the hour to remove the Wallpaper.
There are many products you can find at Home Depot™ ,Lowe’s™ and Wall-Mart™ for instance that will help you soften up the adhesives specially when you are doing commercial projects but If you are doing a residential home then I suggest using warm water and dish soap.That seems to do the trick for me. I start by really soaking the walls with warm water and soap and let it sit for 20 minutes. Then I will go back and repeat that process before I start peeling. I try soak 2 sections at a time once I start peeling. The wetter the paper stays the easier it is to peel.
You can see where I started soaking the paper below
Once everything is removed I do a skim coat with a light weight spackling compound.
Once the compound is dry I proceed to light sand, prime and paint the walls.
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Today we did a color change from a off white to a terra cotta look. We used Sherwin-Williams™ Super Paint and the color “familiar beige”. Although the Super Paint is a little more expensive per gallon then other Sherwin products the results are always worth spending those few extra bucks.
The project went smooth and we finished in a timely manner. The home was part of a new development housing area. For the majority when they build these houses contractors will use a flat paint and a industrial paint sprayer. This tends to leave the surface porous and you will end up using more paint then you would normally on a same size room. Keep that in mind when you are trying to estimate your materials. <click here>