Here are some tips if you are trying to paint your finished cabinets
If you have wood cabinets that have a glossy finish these are the steps you need to take in order to get a solid/durable finish that will look good and last. Most importantly you need to prep your surface right.
You will need:
1.A few Fine sanding sponges or 220 grit sandpaper
2. A 2.5 inch angled all-purpose paint brush 3.A 4-6 inch microfiber Whizz™ roller
After removing your doors and drawers clean your surfaces with any kind of degreaser. I use Windex® most of the time and it seems to do the trick. Using a Fine sanding sponge or some 220 grit sandpaper lightly scuff up the gloss finish of your cabinets just enough to reduce the shine of he gloss. It is important to sand in one direction (with the grain) and not in circles. Once everything is sanded wipe it down again with some index and use a tack cloth or microfiber cloth to remove any dust.Now You are ready to get cranking.
Before you start applying your primer you need to delint your Whizz roller. this will remove any loose fuzz that can stick to your surface. Just use some masking and roll over it with a few passes.
No You are ready to start priming. Because these cabinets had such a high gloss finish we used STIX® Bonding Primer. It is a bit more expensive at $40-$50 per gal. but you get what you pay for and it is well invested money that will save you a bunch of tie and headache because the surface adhesion is phenomenal. Start by cutting in the edges with your paint brush then apply the rest with your mini roller. There is no need to use a lot of primer. A little bit goes a long way. Make sure you check your inside corners and edges because excess paint likes to accumulate there and will leave runs and build ups if you don’t pay attention.
Edges and corners first
Clean corners and edges
Let your primer dry for as long as it is suggested on the product label. Personally I like to let it sit over night to ensure that it has cured completely. One coat of primer is enough.
Once your primer id dry you can start applying your paint. For this project we used “White” Benjamin Moore™ Advance Alkyde (semi-gloss)n and applied it just like we did the primer. A little bit goes a long way again so only apply lightly. Check your edges for runs and wipe any excess paint. You want to check for runs and build ups quite frequently because if you do not take care of that while your paint is still wet you will have to sand those spots again lightly with 200 grit sandpaper. We used thumbtacks on the insides of the doors. That made is possible to flip them and paint the opposite side as soon as we are finished with one side.
Wipe paint runs over egges
Use thumbtacks as legs
You can take a piece of cardboard or wood and stick some thumbtacks in it as well.
There is a drying time of 16 hours before re coating with the Advance paint so be prepared to let it sit over night. The paint will dry to touch in 4-6 hours but it takes 3-4 weeks to fully cure so handle with extreme care and try to avoid closing your drawers and doors until those 3 weeks are up or else you might risk chipping around the edges that touch.
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I have been getting a ton of questions lately about one of our Facebook postings in which I painted our kitchen walls and cabinets. Mostly people are curious as to what it took to get our cabinets looking like new.
Our house is very old and so are our cabinets. It didn’t bother us at first but eventually we got sick of looking at that ugly veneer look so we decided it was time for a makeover.
It’s not very difficult to paint over veneer it just needs the right prep work. If you hire a professional I would suggest trying to do as much as you can yourself such as taking off the doors and hardware and maybe sanding them lightly with a 220 grit sanding block. Just a light scuff will do nothing major ( imagine you are cleaning a window ). That will save you a few dollars. But if you decide to do it on your own here are some tips on how to go about it.
If you are not planing on painting the insides of your cabinet doors you can avoid taking them off and just use masking tape or petroleum jelly to mask your hinges and protect them from getting painted. I prefer petroleum jelly because you can use a small painting brush or a cotton swab to apply it and just wipe it off once your paint dries.
After you remove your doors (or just masking your hinges) lightly sand/scuff the surfaces that are being painted with a 220 grit sanding block. Use a damp rag to wipe off any excess dust.
Your next step is to prime the surfaces with a latex primer. I used one coat of Kills2™ all purpose primer and let it sit over night. You can find it in any hardware or paint store at around $10-$20 per gallon.
There are many different products out there that you can use but my personal favorite is made by Behr™ and is called ALKYD enamel (ca. $30-$40 per gallon). Unfortunately they do not sell quarts but this stuff goes a long way so one gallon usually is more than enough. On this project I used a semi-gloss finish but that is personal preference. I chose semi-gloss because I have 3 kids at home and it just makes it easier to clean.
You will need a 2 inch angled Nylon paint brush
and a 4 inch 3/8 white woven Whizz™ roller
Using a 2 inch Nylon paint brush start cutting in around the hardware (if you did not remove the doors) and any places your Whizz™ roller will not reach. Next use your Whizz™ roller to apply your ALKYD enamel. Try to paint in the same direction as your grain (if your cabinet has a fake wood pattern). Let it dry over night and repeat. You can hang your doors now but keep in mind that the enamel will dry over night but it takes 30 days to fully cure so be careful and try to avoid scrubbing them before those 30 days.
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Removing old Wallpaper can be a real hassle and it is always difficult to estimate a job that includes removing Wallpaper. You never know exactly how long it will take and what obstacles you will run into. Different factors can slow down the process such as what kind of glue was used and whether the wallpaper was applied on previous wallpaper, painted walls or directly on drywall. In most cases I found that the wallpaper will be applied directly to your drywall which means that you most likely will need do some spackling after removing your wallpaper. It can be very costly if you hire a contractor to do the job and you will most likely end up paying them by the hour to remove the Wallpaper.
There are many products you can find at Home Depot™ ,Lowe’s™ and Wall-Mart™ for instance that will help you soften up the adhesives specially when you are doing commercial projects but If you are doing a residential home then I suggest using warm water and dish soap.That seems to do the trick for me. I start by really soaking the walls with warm water and soap and let it sit for 20 minutes. Then I will go back and repeat that process before I start peeling. I try soak 2 sections at a time once I start peeling. The wetter the paper stays the easier it is to peel.
You can see where I started soaking the paper below
Once everything is removed I do a skim coat with a light weight spackling compound.
Once the compound is dry I proceed to light sand, prime and paint the walls.
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Today we did a color change from a off white to a terra cotta look. We used Sherwin-Williams™ Super Paint and the color “familiar beige”. Although the Super Paint is a little more expensive per gallon then other Sherwin products the results are always worth spending those few extra bucks.
The project went smooth and we finished in a timely manner. The home was part of a new development housing area. For the majority when they build these houses contractors will use a flat paint and a industrial paint sprayer. This tends to leave the surface porous and you will end up using more paint then you would normally on a same size room. Keep that in mind when you are trying to estimate your materials. <click here>
Whenever you paint a room whether it’s a color change or refresh I always suggest you remove your outlet covers. They are very simple to remove and reinstall. It makes a big difference getting behind those covers rather than attempting to cut around them.
Just as easy as it is to remove the screws from your covers it is that easy to loose them! I have tried several methods but the easiest and fastest way to ensure I don’t loose them is to place them on a piece of painters tape fold it and tape it to one of the covers, Quick ,easy and effective!
I had a customer ask me today why she had dark spots on her living room ceiling. Specially in her corners (left pic). My first question was if she uses a wood furnace which in this case she did. Her furnace was stationed in the kitchen but the soot would spread throughout her vents. We got lucky and it ended up being a easy fix. One coat of Killz™ Latex Primer (top right pic) and two coats of Sherwin-Williams™ Eminence ceiling paint. The result was a clean/white ceiling that looked like new (bottom right pic).
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