Today I decided to eat lunch at a local Diner for a change. As I am going through the menu I I noticed what seemed to be the owner of the Diner point out some nail holes to a waitress. He seemed a little annoyed that the workers had been hanging up flyers and such using small nails. I decided to go over introduce myself and suggested using a piece of chalk to fill in the nail holes. This is a simple trick for anybody that does not want to use joint compound or caulk. I would not suggest using this method if you are repainting your walls but as you can see in the pictures below that the results are almost unnoticeable.
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With three kids in the house things can get a little crazy and with two boys it can happen that at some point you will find yourself having to patch a hole or two in your drywall. In this case I will be fixing the aftermath of a Nerf™ gun fight.
Step 1: Measure the hole in the wall and add 1 inch to each side vertically and horizontal. This will ensure that you avoid broken pieces on the inside and give it extra support.
Step 2: Cut out a piece of drywall to the desired size. Make sure your piece has the same thickness as the drywall you are repairing.
Step 3: Place your cut piece over the hole and trace it along the edges using a pencil.
Step 4 & 5
4: With a utility knife cut along your lines using just enough pressure to cut through the paper layer of your drywall but not pushing too hard or else you will risk causing more damage.
5: Remove access pieces by pushing inwards. Be cautious again not to apply too much pressure and avoid causing extra damage. (Use your utility knife to clean up your cut edges as good as possible)
Step 6: Add a piece of wood from the inside as support. I am using a regular paint stirrer but you can use any solid piece of wood. To tighten the wood I used 1 1/4 drywall screws.
Step 7: Apply drywall compound with a small putty knife making sure you cover all screws and edges entirely then spread it with a larger putty knife removing all excess compound. It is not necessary to apply too much compound just enough to cover everything as you will have to repeat this step. Let it dry over night.
Step 8: With a medium grit sanding block and a vacuum cleaner you can sand down your compound and avoid it getting to dusty. Your patch should be somewhat smooth now. Add another layer of compound using step 8 but this time it will only be a light skim coat to fill in whatever you did not get with the first coat. You can repeat this step until you reach your desired finish.
Step 9: Your wall is ready to be painted now. Be sure to use a coat of PVA primer (any cheap primer will do) before painting over your patch or else you will have color flashing.
If you have any questions just leave a comment below. I will do my best to help you.
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If you have a smaller sized bathroom with a shower you most likely will encounter this problem at some point. It starts out as a yellowing spot on your ceiling and turns into dark mold spots. It is very ugly to look at but is not caused by uncleanliness as some would assume. The cause of this problem is condensing water from taking hot showers which collect on your ceiling and if it is not a very well ventilated room it will cause your wet ceiling to start growing mold spots.
How to fix it…
In most cases where the customer already made up their mind that they want to repaint the entire bathroom I will go ahead and use a oil based primer such as Killz™ ,let it dry and apply 2 coats of good quality ceiling paint.
However, if I see that the customer is unsure and does not want to repaint everything I suggest using a 50/50 water and Bleach mix. (I use 16 ounces of water to 16 ounces of bleach in a spray bottle) Spray your mixture directly on the stains and always wear the proper protection such as long sleeves and protective glasses. Let it sit for ca. 5 minutes and use a wet rag to wipe down your ceiling.
After cleaning your ceiling it should look almost like new. It is is possible that new stains will grow eventually. You will not be able to avoid this unless you find a better way to ventilate your bathroom during showers unfortunately. But it is a effective solution to your problem and a cheap substitute to repainting your bathroom ceiling.
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Removing old Wallpaper can be a real hassle and it is always difficult to estimate a job that includes removing Wallpaper. You never know exactly how long it will take and what obstacles you will run into. Different factors can slow down the process such as what kind of glue was used and whether the wallpaper was applied on previous wallpaper, painted walls or directly on drywall. In most cases I found that the wallpaper will be applied directly to your drywall which means that you most likely will need do some spackling after removing your wallpaper. It can be very costly if you hire a contractor to do the job and you will most likely end up paying them by the hour to remove the Wallpaper.
There are many products you can find at Home Depot™ ,Lowe’s™ and Wall-Mart™ for instance that will help you soften up the adhesives specially when you are doing commercial projects but If you are doing a residential home then I suggest using warm water and dish soap.That seems to do the trick for me. I start by really soaking the walls with warm water and soap and let it sit for 20 minutes. Then I will go back and repeat that process before I start peeling. I try soak 2 sections at a time once I start peeling. The wetter the paper stays the easier it is to peel.
You can see where I started soaking the paper below
Once everything is removed I do a skim coat with a light weight spackling compound.
Once the compound is dry I proceed to light sand, prime and paint the walls.
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Today we did a color change from a off white to a terra cotta look. We used Sherwin-Williams™ Super Paint and the color “familiar beige”. Although the Super Paint is a little more expensive per gallon then other Sherwin products the results are always worth spending those few extra bucks.
The project went smooth and we finished in a timely manner. The home was part of a new development housing area. For the majority when they build these houses contractors will use a flat paint and a industrial paint sprayer. This tends to leave the surface porous and you will end up using more paint then you would normally on a same size room. Keep that in mind when you are trying to estimate your materials. <click here>
Whenever you paint a room whether it’s a color change or refresh I always suggest you remove your outlet covers. They are very simple to remove and reinstall. It makes a big difference getting behind those covers rather than attempting to cut around them.
Just as easy as it is to remove the screws from your covers it is that easy to loose them! I have tried several methods but the easiest and fastest way to ensure I don’t loose them is to place them on a piece of painters tape fold it and tape it to one of the covers, Quick ,easy and effective!
I had a customer ask me today why she had dark spots on her living room ceiling. Specially in her corners (left pic). My first question was if she uses a wood furnace which in this case she did. Her furnace was stationed in the kitchen but the soot would spread throughout her vents. We got lucky and it ended up being a easy fix. One coat of Killz™ Latex Primer (top right pic) and two coats of Sherwin-Williams™ Eminence ceiling paint. The result was a clean/white ceiling that looked like new (bottom right pic).