Today I want to do a quick product review for Wal-Board Tools ™ “Drywall Patches”. I am not affiliated with this product or its company. This is just an independent review based on personal use and the fact that I am very impressed by how much time you can save and by how well this patch actually performs. This is great for any professional or DIY’er because it’s as simple as peel & stick.
Step 1: Once you peel the paper off the patch just place it on the wall covering your damaged area. It is self-adhering and will stick right to your drywall.
Pro tip: Clean all debris and lose parts of the damaged area with a utility knife before placing your patch. This will ensure your patch will stay flush on your wall and avoid bumps.
Step 2: Apply a thin coat of joint compound and let it dry. Just enough to cover the patch and 2″ -4″ surrounding the patch.
Step 3: Repeat step 2 as many times until you the patch is covered completely. Sand lightly with a fine sanding sponge then prime and paint. It’s that simple!
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It is not common that a customer will request a color that is almost black but the results can be quite stunning as they are in this bedroom.
The exact color we used is a Benjamin Moore™ color named “Midnight Oil” with an Eggshell finish.
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Patching small holes can become a little bit of a headache sometimes. Specially when your hole is bigger than a penny. Most of the time your joint compound will bubble up if your hole is too big. Then you would have to tape it, wait for it to dry then throw some more compound on top of it and so on. Here is a little trick that will eliminate the taping and skip a complete step.
Instead of using tape just fill the holes with some tissue or toilet paper then apply your compound. One coat is usually enough but sometimes a second coat is necessary to make it perfect.
Hope this little tip helped you. If you would like to know more about drywall repair read this article.
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Here are some tips if you are trying to paint your finished cabinets
If you have wood cabinets that have a glossy finish these are the steps you need to take in order to get a solid/durable finish that will look good and last. Most importantly you need to prep your surface right.
You will need:
1.A few Fine sanding sponges or 220 grit sandpaper
2. A 2.5 inch angled all-purpose paint brush 3.A 4-6 inch microfiber Whizz™ roller
After removing your doors and drawers clean your surfaces with any kind of degreaser. I use Windex® most of the time and it seems to do the trick. Using a Fine sanding sponge or some 220 grit sandpaper lightly scuff up the gloss finish of your cabinets just enough to reduce the shine of he gloss. It is important to sand in one direction (with the grain) and not in circles. Once everything is sanded wipe it down again with some index and use a tack cloth or microfiber cloth to remove any dust.Now You are ready to get cranking.
Before you start applying your primer you need to delint your Whizz roller. this will remove any loose fuzz that can stick to your surface. Just use some masking and roll over it with a few passes.
No You are ready to start priming. Because these cabinets had such a high gloss finish we used STIX® Bonding Primer. It is a bit more expensive at $40-$50 per gal. but you get what you pay for and it is well invested money that will save you a bunch of tie and headache because the surface adhesion is phenomenal. Start by cutting in the edges with your paint brush then apply the rest with your mini roller. There is no need to use a lot of primer. A little bit goes a long way. Make sure you check your inside corners and edges because excess paint likes to accumulate there and will leave runs and build ups if you don’t pay attention.
Let your primer dry for as long as it is suggested on the product label. Personally I like to let it sit over night to ensure that it has cured completely. One coat of primer is enough.
Once your primer id dry you can start applying your paint. For this project we used “White” Benjamin Moore™ Advance Alkyde (semi-gloss)n and applied it just like we did the primer. A little bit goes a long way again so only apply lightly. Check your edges for runs and wipe any excess paint. You want to check for runs and build ups quite frequently because if you do not take care of that while your paint is still wet you will have to sand those spots again lightly with 200 grit sandpaper. We used thumbtacks on the insides of the doors. That made is possible to flip them and paint the opposite side as soon as we are finished with one side.
You can take a piece of cardboard or wood and stick some thumbtacks in it as well.
There is a drying time of 16 hours before re coating with the Advance paint so be prepared to let it sit over night. The paint will dry to touch in 4-6 hours but it takes 3-4 weeks to fully cure so handle with extreme care and try to avoid closing your drawers and doors until those 3 weeks are up or else you might risk chipping around the edges that touch.
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Click Here to see another article of ours on repainting cabinets
If you are looking for some color ideas this might be for you
Our customer wanted to change some interior colors to match some of their favorite paintings. I always suggest that if you are deciding on color combinations or just color themes in general you should always try to coordinate them with your favorite decorations in that room (i.e. paintings ,furniture etc.) This does not always work but it is something you should try first before anything else.
In this situation the customer decided to go with two Sherwin Williams™ .
- “sw Canvas Tan” as the main color
- “sw Cavern Clay” as the accent wall
We used the pro mar 200 paint because it has great coverage but is still on the low end when it comes to pricing.
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I have been getting a ton of questions lately about one of our Facebook postings in which I painted our kitchen walls and cabinets. Mostly people are curious as to what it took to get our cabinets looking like new.
Our house is very old and so are our cabinets. It didn’t bother us at first but eventually we got sick of looking at that ugly veneer look so we decided it was time for a makeover.
It’s not very difficult to paint over veneer it just needs the right prep work. If you hire a professional I would suggest trying to do as much as you can yourself such as taking off the doors and hardware and maybe sanding them lightly with a 220 grit sanding block. Just a light scuff will do nothing major ( imagine you are cleaning a window ). That will save you a few dollars. But if you decide to do it on your own here are some tips on how to go about it.
If you are not planing on painting the insides of your cabinet doors you can avoid taking them off and just use masking tape or petroleum jelly to mask your hinges and protect them from getting painted. I prefer petroleum jelly because you can use a small painting brush or a cotton swab to apply it and just wipe it off once your paint dries.
After you remove your doors (or just masking your hinges) lightly sand/scuff the surfaces that are being painted with a 220 grit sanding block. Use a damp rag to wipe off any excess dust.
Your next step is to prime the surfaces with a latex primer. I used one coat of Kills2™ all purpose primer and let it sit over night. You can find it in any hardware or paint store at around $10-$20 per gallon.
There are many different products out there that you can use but my personal favorite is made by Behr™ and is called ALKYD enamel (ca. $30-$40 per gallon). Unfortunately they do not sell quarts but this stuff goes a long way so one gallon usually is more than enough. On this project I used a semi-gloss finish but that is personal preference. I chose semi-gloss because I have 3 kids at home and it just makes it easier to clean.
You will need a 2 inch angled Nylon paint brush
Using a 2 inch Nylon paint brush start cutting in around the hardware (if you did not remove the doors) and any places your Whizz™ roller will not reach. Next use your Whizz™ roller to apply your ALKYD enamel. Try to paint in the same direction as your grain (if your cabinet has a fake wood pattern). Let it dry over night and repeat. You can hang your doors now but keep in mind that the enamel will dry over night but it takes 30 days to fully cure so be careful and try to avoid scrubbing them before those 30 days.
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Today I want to show you how to patch a hole in a hollow core Door. This particular hole was caused by a doorstop in which most cases it usually is. Hollow core doors are not very impact resistant so if you have hollow core doors in your home or place of business this tip will really help you save money and eliminate having to replace your doors.
You will need :
1 can of expanding foam such as GREAT STUFF™ (you can find this at any hardware store or Wal-Mart™)
1 tube of white all-purpose acrylic painters caulk (you can find this at any hardware store or Wal-Mart™)
Razor blade or flush cut saw
100 grit sandpaper (optional)
Door & Trim paint
Small painting Brush
To start off you want to remove all loose pieces from your doors damaged area. Shake your can of expandable foam for about 30 seconds and fill the hole from the inside of your door slowly working your way out. Be sure to wear gloves! This stuff is very intense when it gets in contact with your skin! Let it cure for as long as the label suggests. (I let this sit overnight) You will see that it expands quite a bit.
Your next step is to use your razor blade or flush cut saw and cut off the excess foam. Be sure to cut it back far enough so that it is not flush with your doors panel. You want to cut it back just a little because you will be applying your painters caulk over it which will then be flush with your panel. If you are having trouble cutting it back you can use a piece of 100 grit sandpaper.
Once you cut your foam back you are ready to apply your painter’s caulk. I used my razor blade to spread the caulk evenly making sure it looks smooth and the foams texture is not poking through the caulk. If that is the case you will have to cut back the foam a little more until you get a smooth finish with your caulk and let it dry before applying your second coat.
When you apply your second coat of caulk use your razor blade or an old credit card to mimic your doors wood grain pattern by slowly pulling your blade vertically over your caulk. This will leave a rippled imprint in your fresh caulk layer. It might take a few times but once you get a feel for it you will see it is quite simple to do but makes a big difference in your final outcome.
After your final coat of caulk dries you are ready to paint. Any cheap paint brush will do when applying your paint just be sure to use up and down strokes to blend in your paint and match the wood grain pattern.
If you have any questions just leave a comment and I will answer them to the best of my knowledge and as soon as possible.
For more tips and tricks check out our other blog post!
Today I decided to eat lunch at a local Diner for a change. As I am going through the menu I I noticed what seemed to be the owner of the Diner point out some nail holes to a waitress. He seemed a little annoyed that the workers had been hanging up flyers and such using small nails. I decided to go over introduce myself and suggested using a piece of chalk to fill in the nail holes. This is a simple trick for anybody that does not want to use joint compound or caulk. I would not suggest using this method if you are repainting your walls but as you can see in the pictures below that the results are almost unnoticeable.
If you have any questions or would like to see a certain topic please leave a comment below.
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